Chardonnay, We Hardly Knew You...
In recent history Chardonnay has been much maligned, to the point where there are those who refer to themselves as ABC drinker, ‘Anything But Chardonnay’. This seems unfair to a grape that is the most widely planted wine grape in the world, and whom many see as one of the greatest, if not THE greatest white wine grapes you can use for making fine wine. This reputation came about in the 90’s and 00’s when bucket loads of poorly made Chardonnay flooded the market and tainted the reputation of this wonderfully versatile grape. Today many people think of these over-oaked monstrosities when they think of the grape, which is incredibly misguided as it is capable of so much more.
Burgundy is the birthplace of Chardonnay, where it takes up nearly half of the vineyards and is the main white grape variety. It is made in a wide range of styles, from the crisp, minerally and mostly unoaked wines of Chablis in the north, to the bold, buttery and rich wines of the Cote d’Or and right the way down to the fruity, full-bodied whites made in the Maconnais in the south of the region. Chardonnay in Burgundy can cater to all tastes (there are even sparkling wines made here using it under the title of crémant) and is considered the benchmark for the elegance, complexity and diversity of styles the grape can achieve.
Since the 19th century Chardonnay has been exported all over the world, from Australia to the USA, South Africa to Chile and is found throughout Europe, in locations that had previously grown indigenous varieties. The popularity of the grape has lead to an explosion of wines produced. Some producers look to recreate specific styles found in Burgundy, whilst other try to find ways of using the grape to express their terroir or wine styles. This has lead to a myriad of expressions, proving the grapes range. Where it is grown in cooler conditions it tends to create lighter wines with more floral notes and flavours of orchard fruits. In comparison hotter regions will ripen the grapes more and result in fuller bodied wines that often have more tropical fruit flavours.
Chardonnay has been grown in Champagne for centuries and as the wine style of Champagne evolved into the sparkling wines we know today, it became one third of a triumvirate of grapes used in its winemaking. It is often blended with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier to create the classic Champagne blend but is also used on its own to make Blanc de Blancs (BdB), where it gets to be the star of the show. The wines made as Blanc de Blanc are light and fresh with citrus and floral notes that provide a real elegance and make them ideal for pairing with seafood. If you have not tried one with your fish and chips then you are missing out one of the great food pairings.
Over the last 30 years England has slowly been making a name for itself as a sparkling wine producer using the same methods and grapes as those used in Champagne. Nearly a third (32%) of all vineyard plantings are made up of the grape and it is particularly well suited to the chalky soils found on the South Downs. It is not only in the UK that sparkling wine producers have decided to take inspiration from Champagne, with many other sparkling wine regions in the world also turning to Chardonnay to use in their wines, including Cava, California and South Africa.
South Downs Cellars Recommendations:
Name / Producer: Akurra Chardonnay Region: Victoria / Price: £10.95
Fresh tangerine peel and apricot aromas with a delicious palate of tropical fruits. Enjoy straight from the fridge with prawns or chicken dishes.
Name / Producer: Chardonnay Montsable Region: IGP Pays d'Oc, Languedoc-Roussillon / Price: £12.95
This classic Burgundian variety has been produced in the sunny climate of Languedoc in the south of France. On the palate there is tremendous depth to the fruit which is supported by crisp acidity and an underlying minerality. A very classy Chardonnay.
Name / Producer: Fritz Wassmer Chardonnay Weingut Fritz Wassmer Region: Baden / Price: £16.95
Fritz Wassmer Chardonnay has a complex bouquet of citrus notes, green apple, roasted almonds, beeswax and a hint of caramelized butter. The taste of this Chardonnay is very accessible with an easy drinking, creamy, fine and with a hint of saltiness.
Name / Producer: Macon Aze Jules Richard Cave de Buxy Region: Maconnais, Burgundy / Price: £19.95
A very fine and attractive Chardonnay produced from a blend of vineyard parcels scattered across the Côtes and around Buxy itself, offering subtle, creamy notes of cereal, peach, apple skin and a touch of wet stones.
Name / Producer: Eshcol Chardonnay Trefethen Family Vineyards Region: Napa Valley, California / Price: £25.95
Crafted with select estate lots, its bouquet is beautifully complex with fresh notes of green apple, lemon, tangerine, and orange blossom. Balanced with excellent texture, bright acidity, and a long, lively finish.
Name / Producer: Bramito del Cervo Castello della Sala Region: Umbria / Price: £32.95
This wine is crisp and fresh with soft vanilla notes and a smooth finish. Bramito is produced from the vineyards surrounding the medieval castle at Castello della Sala. The vineyards are on soils rich in fossil deposits with veins of clay that give the wine minerality and elegance.
Name / Producer: Unforgivable Ground Cheniston Blanc de Blancs Region: Sussex / Price: £39.95
There were only 600 bottles of this wonderful blanc de blanc made. South Downs Cellars are delighted to be the sole retail distributer. Elegent and energetic with a long complex finish, this was one of our favourite finds of 2024 and we hope that you get a chance to find out why before it is all gone.