Chenin Bright Like A Diamond
Chenin Blanc is one of our favorite grape varieties, it is capable of a broad range of expressions depending on the terroir and winemaker. Everything from the light, ethereal wines of Vouvray’s to the full-bodied whites from Stellenbosch; the decadently sweet and underrated wines of Coteaux de Layon to the zippy sparkling Cape Classique’s that often use Chenin in their blends. It has a high level of acidity which enables the wines to live for a long time (from 5 to 10 years up to 100 years in exceptional cases). With so much variety coming from one grape variety here is a little guide to help you explore more wines made with this delightful little grape.
Chenin Blanc in the Loire
The Loire Valley is the spiritual home of Chenin Blanc and displays the grape’s ability to create a wide variety of styles. To begin with, Chenin Blanc is often used in the creation of Crémant de Loire, either as the sole grape or as part of a blend, alongside Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc. It is made using the same traditional method as Champagne, or English Sparkling Wines, and offers an affordable, elegant alternative to Champagne.
In the Loire there are 2 main styles of dry Chenin Blanc produced in the valley. To the east, in Touraine (e.g. Vouvray, Montlouis-sur-Loire, Jasnieres etc), the wines tend to be light to medium bodied with a fresh fruity palate and floral aromatics. In contrast the wines made to the west, in Anjou (eg Savennières, Anjou, Saumur etc), the wines are typically fuller bodied, often oak aged and have less floral characteristics.
Once you take a step up the sweetness scale it is not unusual to find demi-sec wines made with Chenin, particularly in Vouvray and Montlouis-sur-Loire where they display similar flavour profiles to the bone-dry cousins. Taking a further step up the sweetness scale and you find wonderful, sweet wines, often made with the assistance of botrytis (or noble rot), that are revered worldwide. These include Quarts de Chaume, Bonnezeaux and Coteaux du Layon, all of which lie on the southern bank of the Loire, near to Anjou.
Chenin Blanc in the South Africa
South Africa has become the second home of Chenin Blanc, with more Chenin Blanc (aka Steen) grown there than any other grape. Once seen as a grape for making bulk wine and brandy, Chenin Blanc is now used to craft some of the country’s most prestigious white wines. The grapes are often grown on low yielding, old bush vines with deep roots that enable the plants to prosper in South Africa’s hot climate.
Chenin’s naturally high acidity enables the wines to retain their freshness, even in the high temperatures of South Africa’s growing season. These wines tend to be full-bodied and are often aged in oak barrels, either new or old, and may go through malolactic fermentation to soften the acidity and add a creaminess to the texture. This process increases the weight of the wine and, in the case of new oak, can add spice notes to the stone fruit and tropical fruit flavours the grapes here produce. Simple, lighter wines are also made from Chenin Blanc in South Africa and it is not unusual to see it blended with Chardonnay to make house wines commonly seen on retail shelves.
Chenin Blanc in the Rest of the World
Thanks to Chenin Blanc’s versatility it is grown throughout the world with significant plantings found in the South of France, USA, Australia, New Zealand & South America. In the Pays D’Oc the wines tend to display the fruitier side of the wine, with plenty of table wine and white blends being made. In the USA, particularly in California, there exists old vines producing ripe, tropical, off dry white wines. Meanwhile in Australia you will find small plantings in Western and South Australia that are showing promise with both dry and sparkling wine styles. Finally, New Zealand & South America, particularly Argentina, are emerging as producers of fresh, fruity styles of Chenin Blanc.
If all this talk of Chenin Blanc has wet your whistle why not check out the following wine suggestions and explore more of what this delightful grape has to offer.
Name / Producer: Los Primos Chenin Blanc/Torrontes Famiglia Bianchi
Region: Mendoza / Price: £12.95
Wine with a vibrant yellow-greenish colour and a beautiful sparkle. In the nose, fresh fruit aromas, such as green apple and citrus, can be perceived, balancing themselves with tropical fruit and white flower aromas. In the mouth, these flavours arise once again in this young, fresh wine with a vibrant acidity, which makes it so easy to drink.
Name / Producer: The Francophile Chenin Blanc The Liberator
Region: Stellenbosch / Price: £14.95
A wine commissioned by Master of Wine Rick from a fantastic resource of old bush vine Chenin, rather than liberating an existing parcel. This is fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks and lees ageing for 5 months. The resulting wine is intensely fresh with lovely minerality, zippy acidity and a creamy palate of yellow apple and ripe apricot.
Name / Producer: Baumard Carte d'Or Domaine des Baumard
Region: Coteaux du Layon, Loire / Price: £14.95
A very attractive honeyed nose, with lifted yellow fruits and more golden tropical elements such as mango, guava and pineapple. It has a particularly tropical character and a very fresh feel on the palate, with steely minerality and a zippy background acidity giving invigorating tartness to keep the wine luscious and buoyant throughout.
Name / Producer: Le Clos des Chaumes Fiefs Vendéens Mareuil Blanc Fabien Murail
Region: Loire / Price: £15.95
Winemaker Fabien Murail is the brains behind the intriguing, Le Clos des Chaumes Fiefs Vendeens Blanc, a blend of 60% Chenin Blanc and 40% Chardonnay . This blend results in fulsome aromas of baked white fruit which carry some mineral interest too. Some apple freshness trails in across the mid-palate and finish in this cracking foodie wine.
Name / Producer: Secateurs Chenin Blanc Adi Badenhorst
Region: Swartland / Price: £17.95
Greengages and fresh green herbs on the nose, with scents of sweet meadow flowers that carry through to the palate, think bowls of fresh sun-kissed apricots, orange blossom and a gentle mineral note from the granite soils the vines are rooted. Gorgeous and really persistent in its length, with a lemon drizzle finish and hint of white pepper.
Name / Producer: Alchimiste Pet-Nat Alain Robert
Region: Loire / Price: £23.95
Fermented with wild yeasts and vinified in barrels and large oak casks, then aged on its lees for 24 months. This Pétillant Naturel captures the essence of its silex-rich clay terroir. It offers delicate aromas of white flowers, citrus zest, and stone fruit. With zero dosage, its lively bubbles and mineral freshness reveal Chenin’s pure character.
Name / Producer: Savennieres Clos de Saint Yves Domaine des Baumard
Region: Loire / Price: £35.95
Intense aromas of green apple, honey, apricot and white flowers with a subtle smokiness. Clean and bright on the palate, with an underlying minerality and a clean, zesty finish. A great partner for grilled fish, seafood, salads or slightly spicy dishes. This superb single vineyard wine is a classic - rich, yet with unrivalled balance and elegance.