It's all Greek to me..
Exploring Greek wine regions and grape varieties
Greece has a fascinating and varied wine culture dating back thousands of years and has a diverse range of wine growing regions. The vast majority of its grape varieties are indigenous, which makes understanding Greek wine a little challenging but it is an effort well worth making. To help you begin exploring the various regions and grape types here are three wines from different areas and made using different grape varieties.
2021 Agiorgitiko Rose 4-6H, Gaia Wines, £14.95/bt
We begin our journey in the Peloponnese, the most southern part of the Greek mainland and the historical homeland of the Spartans. The climate here is typically Mediterranean with mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers, which is ideal for growing grapes. One of the most commonly planted grapes in this region is the red skinned Agiorgitiko. The grape is very versatile and can display a wide range of styles depending on where it is planted. We have a vibrant and crisp rosé made by Gaia Wines, with an intense and aromatic profile which hovers between delicate floral notes of rose petals and fruity flavours of pomegranate and strawberry. Ideal for sitting in the sun regardless of whether it is shining in Corinth or Cuckfield.
2019 Xinomavro Hedgehog Vineyard, Alpha Estate, £21.95/bt
In the North of Greece is the large region of Macedonia, with its mountains, coastline and fertile plains being the birthplace of Alexander the Great. It has a far wetter climate than other parts of Greece thanks to its mountain ranges, although the summers and autumn are still relatively dry. It is here that we find the grape Xinomavro, a red skinned grape that produces wines that are often compared to Barolo. The Alpha Estate has produced a single vineyard wine that is a wonderful example, with its complex bouquet of small berried red fruits, leather, pepper, clove and vanilla spice showing great typicity. It is structured and beautifully balanced with rounded tannins and well-integrated oak, with a touch of quince on the finish. This is a great BBQ red but also wonderful with earthy dishes like mushroom risotto and lentil moussaka.
2020 Assyrtiko, Vassaltis, £39.95/bt
Our final destination is the Island of Santorini in the Aegean Sea, a volcanic isle that may have inspired the myth of Atlantis. It has a dry arid climate, with high winds sweeping the island. This has created a need to protect the vines by growing them in ‘nests’ close to the ground. It is here we find the most famous of the Greek grapes, Assyrtiko. It is indigenous to Santorini and produces very high acidity, making it ideal for making both crisp dry wines and unctuous sweet treats. One of our favorite producers, Vassaltis, produces very Burgundian styled wines that have incredible complexity right across their range. For those who love Chablis, check out their unoaked and aromatic wine with aromas of fresh citrus and grapefruit, giving way to a gorgeously dry, mineral, yet succulent and moreish palate. It is perfect as a partner to shellfish, sushi or even a chicken shish kebab.