Orange from White and White from Red
When making red and white wines there are many differences in the fermentation process but there is one major difference that has a very clear and obvious impact and that is skin contact. With red wines once you have crushed the grapes you leave the grape juice, known as must, in contact with the skins to extract colour and tannins. This is what gives red wine its colour and the grippy, drying feel in the mouth. When you make white wine, you typically crush the white grapes and move the juice away from the skins immediately to avoid the must gaining any additional colour or tannins. But what happens if you switch those processes around and use red wine making techniques for white grapes and white wine making methods for red grapes?
This is more common than you might think, indeed in ancient wine making all grapes would have been left in contact with the juice once it had been pressed regardless of colour. Doing this has the benefit that the tannins in the grape skin contain antioxidants and can help wine last longer, as well as adding body and flavour to the wine. They can, however, also make wine taste more astringent and bitter, which along with a higher level of spoilage in wine back in ancient times, led to wines typically having herbs, spices and honey added to them to make them more palatable. There is therefore a careful balance to be had when leaving must in contact with the crushed grape skins to ensure that you get enough colour, flavour and desirable tannins without gaining any undesirable qualities.
Today we are seeing more and more white wines using this ancient tradition of skin contact, which we now refer to as orange wine, named for the colour that the wine. The typical flavours and aromas you can find in orange wine include apricot, peach, orange rind, nuts, herbs and spices such as ginger, jasmine and chamomile. Orange wines will often have a little bit of a tannic grip, which makes them ideal for pairing with food, and gives them a fuller, rounder body than compared to most white wines. Often this wine making technique is associated with the natural wine movement but is increasingly made by more traditional wine makers too.
What about making white wines from red grapes? These too have quite a storied history in the wine world, although not quite as ancient as that of orange wines. The most famous region for using red grapes in white wines is Champagne. Two out of the three grape varieties used in making Champagne, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, are red, with Chardonnay being the sole white grape. These two red grapes make up roughly 70% of grapes planted in the region and are picked earlier than they would be if used to make a red wine. This earlier harvest time gives the grapes more acidity, which is ideal for making sparkling wines. When the Champagnes are made solely with red grapes they are known as Blanc de Noir, which translates as white from black.
It is not, however, only in sparkling wine production where we see red grapes used to make white wines. With many modern winemakers experimenting with different wine-making techniques it is not unusual to come across red grapes being used to make still white wines. These wines will have the freshness you would expect from a white wine but will often have flavours more reminiscent of a red wine. It is common for red fruit flavours, such as red currant, raspberry, strawberry or cherry, to be found alongside citrus and floral notes, such as violet or elderflower. These still Blanc de Noirs are wines that will surprise and delight in equal measure.
If this has piqued your interest in trying out Orange or Blanc de Noir wines, we have a wonderful range that you can try. Why not come into our stores in Lindfield or Hurstpierpoint and we can steer you in the right direction. Alternatively, here are a couple of our favorites from each category.
Solara Orange, Cramele Recas, Romania £13.95
Made in Romania this is a white wine macerated on its skins, and a great example of the for those looking to dip their toes into orange wine. A textural wine, full of layers and complexity, but still fresh and clean it surprises and delights from the first taste. Created from indigenous and international varieties which combine to produce a pound for pound champion that is impossible not to love.
Rallo Vicoletto Catarratto, Sicily, Italy £15.95
This ‘Orange’ wine is bright yet slightly cloudy in colour thanks to the natural approach to winemaking; with no stabilisation, fining or filtration resulting in a wine with very low sulphur levels. The bouquet is a beautiful mix of citrus, grapefruit, apple and white flesh fruits that follows onto the palate. Complemented by Mediterranean herbs and a backbone of fresh acidity.
Toscana Bianco Sangiovese, Duca di Saragnano, Tuscany, Italy £12.95
Sangiovese vinified in white enhances its aromatic complexity with hints of fresh and not yet ripe black cherry, orange blossom and broom, fading into notes of quince on the finish. Rich in taste and minerality, pleasantly fresh, harmonious and slightly savoury, it closes with a distinctly floral finish. Particularly suitable to accompany white meats with citrus fruits, fresh and smoked cow and sheep cheeses and pasta made with light white sauces.
White Pinot Noir, Albourne Estate, Sussex, England £19.95
An excellent example of a still Blanc de Noir made locally in Sussex by Albourne Estate. Pinot Noir excels in this vineyard, and it can be seen in this delightful white wine which has note of rose petals, primrose and white flowers on the nose. Hints of maraschino cherries and raspberry follow through onto the palate with a soft finish. Delicious with veal, salmon, poultry or just as an aperitif.
Roebuck Blanc de Noirs, Roebuck Estate, Sussex, England £49.95
An outstanding example of an English Sparkling wine made using the Champagne method and only including the Pinot grapes. A rich, yet beautifully balanced wine with delicate bubbles, a silky texture, and a long-lingering finish. Baked apples and ripe stone fruits on the palate are layered with complex notes of brioche and toasted almonds, characteristic of a generous bottle-ageing.